France & Italy
September 18th to 1st October 2004


We circumnavigated France (hugging the west and south coast and stuck to the border on the east) whilst enjoying a 2 day break in Italy where we stayed for a friends wedding  Our aim was a bit of sight seeing (But mostly riding) and to see as much of the different cultures and geography of France We utilised Fomulae1 hotels to save lugging camping gear around but still keeping the cost down to a minimum.
 

Day 1 - 18th Sep - Poole to Saint Marlo via Cherbourg

We rose early and caught the 06:30 Fast Ferry from Poole arriving at Cherbourg for 09:45 French time. As I live within 2 miles of the ferry port in Poole this was a relatively painless journey though it was raining and we were forced to start our journey in waterproofs (Boil in the Bag).

The ferry trip was a little choppy and was still raining by the time we arrived in France.  From Cherbourg we hugged the west coast of the peninsular taking the D904/D650 through Les Pieux, Carteret, Montmartin, onto Granville (D971)  Averanches (D911) then to Le Mont- St Michel along the D113, D43 and D275, where we were able to remove waterproofs.

We covered the 150 miles to St Malo, where we stayed our first night in the pre-booked F1 in Dinan, at a steady pace enjoying the roads and views slowly leaving the UK behind us and the associated stress of our respective jobs

If you have never visited Le Mont- St Michel then it is worth getting off the bike and entering the Mount itself you will be taken back a few hundred years in a moment...

Day 2 - 19th Sep - St Malo to Nantes

After a good nights sleep and a hearty 3 course meal the night before in the walled City of St Malo we headed South at the mercy of our GPS for 150 miles our only aim was to cross the St Nazaire Bridge before arriving at Nantes for the night.

Along the way we intended to stop off as and when we needed to at town bars or Cafe's for refreshments and of course to refuel the bike. France shuts for lunch from 12:00 - 14:00 and the chance of fuelling during this time was NIL!

The GPS guided us down some real biking roads such as the D2, D29, D68, D773 and through some picturesque villages and towns. We had no problem finding a place to stop for Coffee and a Croquet Monsieur (a cheese and Ham toasted sandwich), both hit the spot and gave us the opportunity to practice our limited French, which amounted to much hand gesturing and pointing for such simple things as 2 large coffees one with milk please  "deux grands cafés l'un avec le lait s'il vous plaît" and Ham sandwich "jambon sandwich"

Day 3 - 20th Sep - Nantes to Bordeaux

The weather was sunshine all the way a clear indication that we had left the poorer weather we had experienced the day before behind us. I did encounter a problem with the bikes Alarm and Immobiliser, when the alarm engaged after a lengthy ride it needed a while 15 - 20 mins before I could get the alarm to disarm, I tried both fobs (I had my spare) so eventually when it did disarm I was forced to remove the fuse to prevent it re-arming automatically when I next stopped for fuel. Annoying.

During today's ride we enjoyed some variety of roads presented by the GPS and on one occasion it took us to a slip-road which did not exist so consequently we could not join a selected road and had to detour - the routes planned and pre-programmed into the GPS were excellent and easy to navigate.

Day 4 - 21st Sep - Bordeaux to Toulouse

During today we sat back and enjoyed a fruitful ride through old rustic hamlets. We even had time to stop and write up a few postcards and enjoy a fresh crusty sandwich and watch the town slowly come to life around us. It is notable that the French do not have a problem with bikes and you can even park up on the pavement next to your table at most cafes - useful for not having to lug valuable gear around all the time.

Our curiosity and limited French language posed us a conundrum as we passed through a small hamlet called "Ham" surely this ought to be called Jambon? 
 

Day 5 - 22nd Sep - Toulouse to Nimes

Today was a day of photographs as we cut through the area of the Midi Pyrenees, the views were almost as good as the roads, almost...

Day 6 - 23rd Sep - Nimes to Antibes

Day 7 - 24th Sep - Antibes to Viereggio (Italy)

A panoramic view of Monaco awesome - one minute we were at sea level then we were high up looking down at this amazing view.

A view of the French Italian border where the mountain hits the sea.

High in the Alps running close to the shore headed into a downpour.

Day 8 - 25th Sep - Viereggio (Italy) - Rest Day

This was our rest day where we took in the Saturday market and ironed our party clothes ready for Chrissy and Alan's wedding in the afternoon.
 
The beach view is out front of our hotel which is central and just in front of the Alps.

Our room is obvious by the waterproofs hanging out to dry on the balcony...

The happy couple were married in true Italian style (we have never eaten so much excellent food or drunk such fine wine)
hosted by Chrissy's family whom we quickly became good friends with.

Don't we scrub up well?
 

Day 9 - 26th Sep - Viereggio to Grenoble

Day 10 - 27th Sep -  Grenoble to Dijon

After the ride yesterday we rode quietly as we left the mountains and the far clear views behind us glad to be away from the hard cold technical ride which required so much concentration to the more mundane but still biking roads to Dijon
 

Day 11 - 28th Sep - Dijon to Metz

The roads became more mundane as we travelled North closer to reality and the thought of UK weather conditions today threatened rain but failed to deliver it. The clouds hung low and dark turning the air cold.  We arrived in Metz with plenty of time for a warm shower and a trip into the City centre, this was a historic City and the ride through it was picturesque especially after dusk when the lights came on.

It was here that we discovered an eating revolution called "Flunch" where a good quality 3 course meal could be had for as little as 22 Euros for two complete with 50cl of wine.
 

Day 12 - 29th Sep - Metz to Amiens

It rained all day today and whilst we were still able to enjoy the ride we were as happy to arrive at the F1 in the early afternoon for some warming exercises, luckily all the amenities were close to the F1 so we were able to do some window shopping (therapy for Wendy) we practiced opening bottles of wine with a bootlace on a 1.25 euro bottle of Rose' - We were not inspired to take a single photo today...
 

Day 13 -  30th Sep - Amiens to Caen

The weather brightened up a fair bit today and the area we rode through was rural with much to see - mostly idyllic houses set in the side of the road and quaint little towns undoubtedly home to many an ex-patriot...

It was Wendy's turn to select the venue for lunch in Rouen...
I thought it was a poor choice until I saw the portions and the price which included chips and a can of Coke/Fanta

Day 14 - 1st Oct - Tour D-Day Beaches and ferry home from Ouisetram to Portsmouth

We were to catch the ferry home so we planned a lazy day but one which would also be a tribute to those who had won us the right to ride freely over our chosen route this last 13 days. We rode round the Normandy D-Day landing beaches and what a reality check it was - I have been here a few times in the past and the enormity of the human losses and the ultimate achievement for those who made it off the beach - It was what I call a "Reality Check" and for Wendy who's first time here it was a thoughtful day. We both come from strong military backgrounds so were moved by the shear weight of different Arms, Regiments, Corps, Nationalities who were involved on the 6th June 1944... 60 years past.

The USA Cemetery of remembrance Omaha beach (an ld photo I have)