West Scotland 2004

Scotland One Wet August Bank Holiday in 2004 We rode through the Western Highlands of Scotland this August Bank Holiday. Wendy had never been to Scotland and I had never ridden a bike up there, Sure I had yomped the area in a previous life but found this more relaxing, though just as wet and challenging... We were joined by friends Keith and Loretta also on their Yamaha FJR1300(A)
Places key points we visited are: The Commando Memorial at Spean bridge, Drumnadrochet on Loch Ness which is the location where the film "Loch Ness" was filmed, Isle of Sky by crossing the bridge from Kyle of LochAlsh, And to cover as much of the beautiful landscape as we could in the short time we had allowed. here is a planned route avoiding motorways and major major roads...	The trip started with an Idea "Lets go to Scotland for the Bank Holiday" not much thought of distance, weather, or accommodation. I posted on the FJROwners forum to see if anyone knew the "Must Ride" roads and to see if anyone else was mad enough to make the trip, with what was left of Hurricane Charlie raging across the UK. Not as bad as it was in the states (they always have it bigger) but enough to effect the summer weather in Scotland on the very weekend we were planning a ride. Keith and Loretta chose to come along so we opted for B&B (Loretta is sensitive to the term "roughing it") so Keith found us a little B&B for both nights to relax during the evenings. http://www.visit-fortwilliam.co.uk/ferndale/index.htm So all that remained was a likely route...

My journey started in Poole Dorset at 18:00 on Friday after a busy day at work where 295 miles of Friday traffic were waiting to test my patience. Is it me or are the roads full of cars who only use the middle and outside lanes? on the M6 after Birmingham I was sure I had crossed into France and everyone was driving on the right, my route followed the A31 to the M27, M3, A34, M40, M42, M6 M62, M60, M66 A56 to arrive in Padiham Lancashire at 22:00 (ish). We were all set then... The plan was for Wendy and I to meet up with Keith and Loretta Saturday 09:00 at Tebay Services on	We made good time and left Tebay at 09:30 making quick work of the Motorway stretch to Stirling a definite plus for the FJR1300 which crunched the miles in relative comfort. We ran into the drizzle almost as soon as we hit the Highlands, but though the roads were wet it could have been much worse our enjoyment was not dampened. Whilst riding along we were left breathless by the sheer beauty of the scenery all around us it was magnificent and the sheer size of the country made the "Lakes" and "Dales" we had left behind seem like rolling hills in comparison.
the M6 at Penrith just short of Carlisle sandwiched between the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales. Have breakfast and then ride the 300 miles to Torlundy just above Fort William. Taking in the scenic roads from Stirling onwards. The 1 hour Journey from Padiham to Tebay Services passed quickly as did the 2 hour journey from Wrexham for Keith and Loretta.	Our first detour was around Loch Leven in the Glencoe area and at its centre Kinlochleven. By which time the weather had even dissipated to allow us long enough to take some photographs and shed our helmets long enough for a Loretta to smoke a cigarette and for us all to have a chat. It's Spooky how Keith appears at both ends of the photograph...
We arrived at the B&B earlier than we had anticipated and surprisingly dryer too, at approx 16:00 ready for a shower reorganisation and then out for a well needed beer to wash down the excellent Haggis complimented by Tatties and Neeps and much talk of the miles we had covered. We all agreed this was going to be a terrific ride, even if we were destined to hone our wet weather riding skills. It is worth a mention here that Keith and Loretta liked the look of the Corbin seat I had especially with the backrest. After suggesting they try it out they both pootled off to the local Spar shop for some "Stuff" where alas we missed the view of the trip, which many a car and truck driver seemed to get much mirth from. It was of course Loretta attempting gymnastics alighting from the bike forgetting it had been fitted with the Corbin seat and backrest. Needless to say Loretta now walks with a limp and there is a definite dent in the tarmac where she landed...
We rose Sunday at a sensible time for a full English at 08:30 welcomed by a sheep chorus (we had to keep an eye on Keith - the Welsh you know...) and the promise of a sunny day... Or rather it was in Torlundy. Our first stop was to be the Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge just 8 miles from the B&B... As soon as we turned out of the B&B the weather changed proving that the GarminStreetPilotIII was truly waterproof, believe me we put it to the test this day.	Sunday was to be the day we crossed to Skye from Malliag but given the state of the weather we chose to ride the road round to Kyle of Lochalsh rather than take the ferry and nip over the bridge and then straight back again for the experience of crossing the bridge and stepping on Skye soil even though the toll was payable (£2.90 each way). Never let it be said that the Scots are a mean people ;) as we managed to do the trip both ways only incuring a single charge, we did hear mutterings of "Mad English Bikers!" though...

At Kyle the Rain stopped for a while and in the respite we managed to warm up a little ready for an absolutely stunning ride and views back over the top from Kyle of Lochalsh along the A890 to Inverness through some of the best views of the trip up to Stormeferry was dry but then we went through some of the worst rain of the trip on some of the twistiest roads from Stormeferry, Ardnarffm, Strathcarron and Craig before heading south to Loch Ness.	The views of the cliffs down into the inner Sound were a sight worth the beating we had taken by the weather and had to take for the rest of the day, until we arrived at Drumnadrochit on the Loch Ness. Here we stopped for Lunch and to dry out. The roads back down to Torlundy were as good as any we had ridden and fair twisty with more tremendous views along the way.
Sunday night we went into Fort William and to the Ben Nevis pub for Steak and beer well worth the taxi ride.
Monday saw the start of the ride home, but not after we took advantage of some more of Scotland's roads, and in this instance some of the mountain tracks as we found ourselves up high and on a mountain Pass.. After some normal roads (well for Scotland anyway) we ended up on the A9 headed south which we believed to be the last of the good roads and the eventual creep back to normality England and work... Just how wrong could we have been!	Only with GPS could we have ended up on these tracks... as we were routed to turn off the A9 after only a few miles at Trinafour up an unmarked road to Loch Tummel and onto the B846 which brought us to Kenore and a Water Park on the Loch off the River Tay. Where after a photo and shucking off of waterproofs we embarked on a very very steep and twisty gravel strewn road (if you could call it that) to Loch Freuchie and down the other side to Amulree . Where by some fated mouse click when planning the route the GPS took us 100 yards left on the A822 to a small Cafe before taking us back right again on the A822 trough Crieff and back to Stirling and Home.